Two Acres Tea Room in Durban - reviewed

The Taste Detectives review the Two Acres Tearoom and find the best cheesecake in all of KZN.

18 Aug 2014

Two Acres Tearoom hides unobtrusively just off the main road to Assagay.  Tearoom may not be the best description, unless of course we go roomy on the elegant garden nooks surrounding this French gravelled courtyard, complete with majestic plane trees that enclose this oasis.

Looking up at these giants, devoid of their summer foliage, one is filled with a joie de vivre, for the splendour of warmth they graciously let through on a chilly winter’s day. It’s as if they stand guard, a protector of the area below, and reminiscent of the 1900 French nobility that favoured the planting of plane trees to offer shade to foodstuffs being brought to their chateau.

It’s a beautiful yet simple building that screams farm, nourish and care. The place was packed but they seemed to handle it with military precision, smiles galore.  The harvest table taking centre stage was filling up with a large group of friends. All very festive.

The menu
The deception started with a one page menu stuck to a wooden clipboard. Choosing between Chargrilled Salmon Nicoise and Roasted Kingklip with salsa verde was torturous as I watched plate after plate passing me by, each competing in the splendour of their seduction. Pile high with decorative touches of herbs and perfectly placed salads. We whiled the time away with a pot of tea, presented in the most beautiful tea pot I have seen.

The providence of three, had me oooo-ing and aaa-ing over Savoury mince cascading over artisan bread, again, the simplicity guilty of deception. It was loaded with a tangy tomato reduction and tender mushroom stems. Generous in flavour and size, and oh-so-Italian.

Perhaps the roasted Kingklip may have been slightly overcooked, but the Salsa Verde and olives in their unusual pairing complimented the fish well. Livened up with lemon, it was a worthy attempt for my affections.

A  Parmesan encrusted Chicken with Green Bean Gremolata, tossed about somewhat randomly stole the show with a near perfect crust, miraculously so in spite of the lashings of  avo piled on top. Succulent and tender, perfectly cooked.

The cheesecake
But the pièce de résistance was most certainly the Cheesecake, the seductress of my best intentions. As if smirking in the face of my futile resistance, the biscuit crust groaned under the weight of a luscious cream cheese topping. Like the Cheshire cat in Alice in Wonderland cheekily challenging the rabbit:  “Let your *need* guide your behaviour”

It was a coup d’état, I succumbed, although an impossible serving just for one – the last lazy bites were pure torture.

There is ample room to walk your indulgence off. A visit to the pamper spa under the trees and the decor shop provided my delusional interpretation of exercise after our meal. Roses blossom everywhere, and the steps are lined with paintings on old trestles to purchase.

While settling the bill, we had a good banter with Richard who has one hell of a sense of humour. He managed to sell us liquorice we shouldn’t be having and Olive oil, “just in case”.

I love this place.  A patron recently commented on their Facebook page ” As Michelin says: Worth a detour”

I agree, and so will you.

Reviewers Note: Two Acres grow many of the items they serve, and in season, the vegetable and herb garden supplies a large percentage of their fresh produce . You can buy free range eggs, stone-ground artisan bread, cakes and other delicacies. They also offer a High Tea at R165 with sweet and savoury delicacies that will have your knickers in a royal knot.

Two Acres Tearoom was reviewed by Sannie Sekwasiof The Taste Detectives


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