Food24 eats at... the Cellars-Hohenhort

Chef Caro takes a turn past the new Cellars for a more-than-interesting meal.

24 Aug 2010

The Greenhouse is fancy, really fancy. It’s also beautiful with lots of shiny cutlery and a glass ceiling to make you feel, well, like you’ve stepped into a greenhouse.

Don’t go in slops and a t-shirt, this place deserves a lick of warpaint and a nice frock.

Seeing is believing – take a look at our gorgeous gallery of pictures.

Recently opened, we were there for a media evening where PeterTempelhoff had spun his genius into some really interesting food.

In my opinion, it was superb. Though it must be said that if you’re not into a bit of molecular gastronomy and left-field sensory food – don’t go.

Magical creations came floating out of that kitchen with quirky aspects such as smoky powdered dressing (liquid nitro) on the carpaccio and an upside-down crème brulée.

The main course was an ‘Autumn forage’ which left you with no cutlery and a plate of bite-sized pieces of duck, bitter chocolate 'soil’ and Jerusalem artichoke 'bark’ that were hidden under brightly coloured Autumn leaves. A warm cloth scented with the forest floor was the beginning of this fabulously intriguing and mid-summer night’s dream of a dish.

The flavours of each dish were in some ways subtle and some ways intense and the best way to describe it is an astonishing gastronomical experience with a big twist of fun. A serious blast-off of the senses.

There is passion and extreme skill that is bouncing around in this kitchen and if you’ve got an open mind and like something a little different, this is a place for you. 

The wine

Our guru Cathy Marston tells it like it is: ‘It’s awesome – it’s a Platinum award winner (may even be wine list of the year) and is completely comprehensive in terms of variety and style. Interesting that the wines by the glass selection involves quite a lot of older vintages (2008 Sauvignon for example) which shows a confident hand at the wheel. I would like more choice at glass level but there you go. And the prices are what you would expect from an establishment of this quality.'

Price range

Don’t choke when you get your bill, it is expensive. BUT if a foodie experience that will blow your socks off is what you’re after, book a table as soon as you can.

Read more on: restaurant  |  caro de waal  |  review

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