Olive oil
Food in focus

Olive oil
There can hardly be a kitchen in the country that doesn't cook with olive oil. But what's the difference between cold pressed and extra virgin? And when should you use what? We take you on a smooth trip down the olive oil lane.

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Background

Like wine, olive oil varies enormously in quality and flavour, the taste, colour and aroma are dependent on the country of origin, the soil in which the trees are grown and the method of harvesting. The oil can be anything from deep green to light gold while the flavour can range from pungent and peppery to light and fruity. The finest oils are hand harvested and cold pressed.

Professional tasters pour the different oils into small white dishes and taste them by dipping pieces of bread into the oil. As a general guide, oils from France are sweet, Greek oils are aromatic, Spanish oils are fruity, Tuscan oils are peppery and Californian oils are fruity and mild. South African olive oils are growing in popularity across the world (we produce some 700 tons of olive oil annually) and the better ones have a fresh, full-bodied taste with a slight peppery aftertaste.

SA's best

And now may be the time to boast: we may have lost the rugby to the new world countries, Australia and New Zealand, but our locally produced Extra Virgin Olive Oil from Morgenster in Somerset West just won Australia's 'Oil of the Year' In The Southern Hemisphere competition for New Season Extra Virgin Olive Oils. It has of course also won, for five consecutive years, the prestigious international Orciolo de Oro award at Italy's Olive Oil Challenge in Pesaro. So no reason not to buy South African olive oil! In fact, the olive oil industry is almost 80 years old in SA, with the first groves planted in Paarl by the Costa family. And the Western Cape's Mediterranean climate makes it ideal for cultivating olives and making the oil.

The different kinds

Extra virgin olive oil
Extra virgin olive oil has less than one percent acidity. Only the pulp of high grade fruit is used. A single variety of olive is crushed between two stone wheels and the pulp is then spread on mats and gently pressed down with weights. The low pressure prevents heat from building up and allows for a more robust flavour.

'Cold pressed' and 'first pressing' were common terms in the past, but they are not used as often today because modern methods and hydraulic pumps mean that the oil is pressed once only and the process does not require heat. Extra virgin olive oils are usually greenish in colour and are the best and most expensive, because they haven't been refined. The greener the oil, the purer it is.

Virgin olive oil
Virgin olive oil has 2 percent acidity. It is best used for sauteéing or when a less pronounced olive taste is required. It is a refined virgin oil to which extra virgin olive oil has been added to restore some of the colour and flavour lost in the refining process.

Refined olive oils
These are usually simply labeled 'olive oil' and they have been refined to remove natural impurities. They are usually blended with one another and virgin oil is sometimes added to improve the flavour. They are blander in taste, lighter in colour and cheaper than virgin oils. They are good for cooking.

'Lite' olive oils
Finally, light oil can be used in dishes that do not want to be dominated by an olive taste. It has little olive flavour and is preferred in subtle and delicate recipes. Remember that "light" refers to colour and taste, not fat or calorie count, which are the same as in other olive oil blends.

Usage

Can you trust the label?
You can do a simple test at home to verify the product descriptions on olive oils. Place ½ cup of olive oil in a container and refrigerate for two days. Chemically refined oils will turn into a solid mass, while genuine extra virgin oils will create small granules of fat suspended in liquid oil.

triking oil

Storing olive oil

'Useless' information


  
Olive oil over everything!
  • Fig polenta cake with olive oil & orange syrup
  • Marinated olives
  • Marinated artichokes and goat's milk cheese
  • Olive oil couronne (loaf)
  • Olive, thyme and onion tart
  • Olive oil and mustard mash
  • Cheese and onion bread
  • Chermoula for lamb, chicken and fish
  • Chicken with green olives
  • Ciabatta crostini

    Tip of the day

    To make herb-flavoured oil
    Half fill a bottle with fresh herb leaves such as basil, or sprigs of thyme or rosemary. Fill the bottle with olive oil. Cover and steep for 1-2 weeks.


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