Mayonnaise - food in focus

Food in focus

Mayonnaise
Mention mayonnaise and most people think of that tangy one, or a real French-style mayonnaise. But that's really only scraping the surface. Let's take a look at the different types of mayonnaise, and how to make them.

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What is it

Mayonnaise is an emulsion, which forms when two substances that would normally separate, such as oil and vinegar, are combined to form a smooth, lightly thickened mixture by adding raw egg yolks or mustard. The process requires vigorous whisking, adding liquid to the emulsifier. Once the mixture has thickened, the liquid can be added in a thin stram while continuing to whisk briskly.

Important points

Ingredients must be at room temperature and in correct proportion. Don't use eggs from the fridge! The mixing bowl can be warmed under hot water to take the chill out of egg yolks.

Poor-quality ingredients will spoil mayonnaise and dressings.

If good wine vinegar is not available, use cider vinegar.

Always beat yolks for a minute or two before adding other ingredients. Once thickened, they are ready to absorb the oil.

Oil can be beaten in with a balloon whisk, electric beater or liquidiser.

If using a liquidiser or blender use whole eggs instead of just the yolks. A large egg will only absorb so much oil so stick to the basic proportions. If its maximum is exceeded, the emulsion will break down and the sauce will curdle.

To rectify curdled or thin mayonnaise warm a clean bowl in hot water and dry it. Add an egg yolk, beating until creamy and then beat in 15ml of curdled sauce. Beat with a whisk until emulsified. Beat in the rest, spoon by spoon, thickening between each addition.

Variations

Tartare
Add chopped parley, a small onion, pickled gherkin and 30ml capers in mayonnaise. Use with fish.

Aioli
Mix one slice stale bread, soaked in milk and squeezed dry together with three crushed garlic cloves. Beat with yolks and continue as basic mayonnaise recipe, finishing with water and lemon juice. Do not add egg whites. Use for potatoes, eggs and vegetables.

Remoulade
Add 2,5 ml anchovy paste or chopped anchovies, pickles, capers and herbs.

Rouille
Put three peeled garlic cloves, two seeded red chillies, two thick slices bread soaked in chicken stock and squeezed dry and one yolk in food processor. With motor running, add 300ml olive oil, processing until thickened.

Lemon
Add 5ml finely grated lemon rind after whisking yolks and before adding egg whites. Fold in 30ml more lemon juice if necessary.

Fresh herb
Add 45-60ml mix of tarragon, basil, chervil, chives, parsley or origanum to 375ml mayonnaise. To keep for a few days, blanch herbs in boiling water for one minute. Drain, refresh, dry between paper towels and stir in.

What went wrong?

Tastes oily
Your oil is too strong, or you used too little lemon juice or vinegar. Adjust seasoning; add more lemon juice, vinegar or mustard.

Tastes acidic
Too much vinegar or lemon juice or insufficient seasoning. Add more salt and beat in more olive oil.