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Essential vanilla

Vanilla is the queen of spices and, after saffron, the most expensive one in the world. Now real vanilla pods are edging out the artificial essence and the fragrant aroma is conquering the kitchens of the world.

It was the Aztecs who discovered vanilla; they collected moist pods that had fallen to the forest floor from the climbing orchid of which they are the fruit and used the seeds to flavour chocolate. Today, Mexico and Madagascar produce the most vanilla in the world. The pods, which are extremely delicate and easily damaged, resemble green beans in shape (and colour, while unripe) - in fact, some people call the pods 'beans'. They remain on the plant until the green pods turn yellow at the tip, when they are harvested by hand and the curing process begins. At this stage they have no smell or taste.

The harvested pods are plunged into baths of boiling water and then left to sweat on wooden frames, wrapped in cloth, to activate the enzymes that create the aroma and unique flavour. They are then placed in ovens that are set at a very low temperature and left for several weeks, until a fine frosting of white crystals appears. This is a sign that the finest flavour has been achieced.

During curing, the pods turn dark brown to black. Although the pods can grow up to 30 cm in length, the best are usually 15 cm long, pliable and a deep chocolate brown colour.

The real thing
Real vanilla is nothing like the artificial flavouring we know as vanilla essence- it's rich and sweet and syrupy and has a luxurious aroma. Vanilla extract - the natural extract from the beans - is sometimes available in this country and is infinitely preferable to the essence. But the best flavour of all comes from using the vanilla pod with its tiny black seeds and soft pulp.

Vanilla lore